Casa das Penhas Douradas

My companion and I had wanted to explore Serra da Estrela for a few years, and what better time than summer to head to the mountains (while most head south to the beaches of Algarve). Advocates of combining high and low when traveling, we decided to lock in a few nights at Casa das Penhas Douradas on the strength of its reputation, its alluring aesthetic, and its overly proud connection to the region.

The room, although modest in size, was efficiently designed, providing sufficient space for comfort and storage. Same goes for the bathroom, with its selection of Le Labo products and wonderful shower set up. Equipped with a satellite TV, central AC, a hairdryer, and a phone, the room’s warm tones and birch wood finishes echo the property’s overall aesthetic and feel. This hotel is mostly all about the details and our room was no exception; from the large windows facing the incredible landscape and the positioning of the power outlets, to how comfortable the bed was, time spent behind doors was very gratifying. Mid-afternoon visits by the staff delivering some freshly baked cookies, fruit, along with the next day’s menu and list of proposed activities, was also a great touch.

Casa das Penhas Dourada, which opened in 2010, was conceived by João Tomás and Isabel Costa. Taken by the Serra da Estrela, the couple decided to invest in the region and its available resources. The first of its kind in Portugal, the ‘Burel Expedition Hotel’ embodies and provides an authentic mountain tourism experience, a place which allows visitors to rediscover the beauty of the simplicity of things. It is a great destination for hikers but also for visitors seeking tranquility and musing. Inspired by local architecture and created to integrate its surrounding, the deceptively minimal interior design – defined by the juxtaposition of earthy elements such as birch, cork, and granite – is couched in functionality and alluring details. From striking original furniture pieces by designers such as Hans Wegner, Bruno Mathsson, and Pedro Silva Dias, to artistic works by the likes of Catarina Pinto Leite, the hotel’s decoration reinforces the architecture’s cozy and homey feel. An ideal getaway for couples or a solitary retreat, the space and overall vibe of Casa das Penhas Douradas can also be suitable for families with children (several were there during our stay).

At 1500 meters of altitude, in the heart of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, Casa das Penhas Douradas is set up for guests to enjoy their stay on location, whether it’s indoors or venturing outside. Inside there is the library, a Mountain Spa, and a heated swimming pool with a panoramic view, and for the outdoors, the hotel provides mountain bikes, in-house designed trail maps which will guide you to incredible view points, and (during colder seasons) sledges and snow shoes. That being said, beyond the incredible surrounding 250km of mountain biking and trekking paths, there is much to explore nearby, especially during spring and summer when the weather is more forgiving. While highly recommended spots like the Rossim Valley lagoon (‘Vale do Rossim’), a plethora of historical landmarks, and Casa de São Lourenço are still manageable by foot, places such as the Glacial Valley of the Zèzere, SkiParque, and a handful of charming villages (namely Mantegais, home to the inspirational Burel Factory), are within a scenic hour drive from the hotel.

Although interaction was limited due to social distancing, we met a High Court judge from Lisbon and the hotel owner’s daughter. Maria Fátima Bonifácio, a famed Portuguese historian, was there finishing her upcoming book.